More Game

Me and my brother hit the Game/Snoop show last night at the Pacific Coliseum. Had no idea there was that many gangsters in this city. You should have seen all the mean mugging that was going down in the stands. There was a mini rumble in my row between the Game and Snoop sets. And drunk dudes hollering all over the place. Even had a little personal drama of my own, but won't get into that here.

Was impressed with Game's ability to rock a stadium. His show is pretty decent in a club setting, but even better in an arena. He covered the stage well, charmed the crowd (hint to American rappers: complimenting BC bud always wins over local audiences; Vancouverites are ridiculously proud of that), and incorporated enough call and response routines to keep people on their feet. Plus, dude has a sense of humor. At one point, he took a moment to call out all of the haters that he has recently attracted (fame will do that), and he started running through all the petty reasons people hate. Don't really want to repeat here cause it was a little on the obscene side, but suffice to say it was some funny shit. Then, during "Dreams," he got people to hold up their cells and lighters; the sight of thousands of multi-colored lights swaying in unison was something else. Like a hip-hop christmas, or something.

I'm busy getting organized for the next leg of my trip. For the next couple of months, it's North American hip-hop time. Stay tuned.

One last thing...thanks to all the people supporting the site. Web traffic is bananas right now and it's very cool to get to share this journey/grind/hip-hop pilgrimage with you all.

All I Need...

...is me and my girlfriends.

Right now it's all about lying around on the grass in the sun, long walks on Kits Beach, Saturday morning dim sum (Jen worked her magic and got us a table and free jasmine tea), bikini shopping at the Main Street fashion district, gossiping over lunch at Thai Away Home in the West End, finally getting to tell all my stories from the road, listening to the Old School Lunch on The Beat (shout out to DJ Ali Baba), drinking real coffee (not that gut-rot instant stuff that dominates most of Asia), and draining the battery on my cell over and over again. And I usually don't even like Vancouver.

Home Sweet Home

Back in Van City for a two week break. After five weeks on the road, I am seriously worn out. Don't know how rappers do this for months at a time.

So happy to be home for a bit. Was at my favorite coffee shop by 8 a.m. this morning, catching up with one of my best friends, and soaking up the sunshine.

The Game

My cover story on The Game finally came out. Been sitting on that one for almost two months. My editor swore me to secrecy, so I couldn't even tell friends about the scoop. Anyway, check it out. Game gave a really great interview.

Joey Boy

Stopped by the Gancore Club record label offices at GMM Grammy (gancore is the lethal zone in Thai boxing) this aft to talk to Thailand's biggest rapper, Joey Boy (flick above and below with rapper Nara and R&B producer Kok). The guy has put out seven records in the past decade, and has sold over 5 million units. To put those numbers in perspective, Thailand's population is only 65 million people.

A couple of years ago, he met the Black Eyed Peas in a club in the States and was invited to record with them. The result was the collabo "LA/BKK." The Peas subsequently came out to Thailand and did a show with Joey. Apparently will.i.am is obsessed with elephants (the national animal for Thailand), hence the title Elephunk.

Have listened to a fair bit of Joey's music and it's really unique. His last few outings in particular have been more experimental; he's been working consciously to expand the Thai hip-hop sound and make it more authentic.

On the business tip, dude is the Thai Jay-Z. Not only is he the most famous Thai rapper (the King of Bangkok, if you will), but he also focuses a lot of his time and energy on developing the new acts that he signs to his label. Today he told me about discovering this cat from the north. The MC didn't have money for a demo and couldn't get a hold of any beats to rap over, so he just taped himself freestyling a capella and delivered it to Joey. His name is Fucking Hero and now he is one of the most popular hip-hop artists in Thailand.

Style Tips for the Budget Backpacker

Whoever coined the term "backpacker chic" must not have ever have kicked it with a bunch of travelers--the look is about as far from chic as you can get. (Myself included here.) Rumpled clothes are a mainstay. Add to that at least one stained garment, a shaggy hairdo, and ragged nails. For nights on the town, match grimy jeans with an ill-fitting $2 t-shirt with random English phrases on it, Teva sandals, and the requisite money belt. Too sexy for this town.

Here's the top ten packing tips I wish I had read before I embarked on my trip:

1. Just because you are living out of a rucksack doesn't mean other people are. When folks go out to clubs and restaurants in their hometown, they are gonna look hot. As in clean clothes, dress shoes (or spotless sneakers), slicked hair, smelling nice. To hold your own, pack at least one pair of high heels (in Tokyo and Bangkok, they are the foundation of women's streetwear) so that you aren't forced to wear flip-flops with everything. Pack one pair of jeans for bumming around, and one crisp new pair strictly for clubs. Bring two strappy bar shirts and keep them hidden away from coffee, jam, cigarette ash, and anything else that sloppy fellow travelers feel the need to dump on you.

2. It's all about upkeep. If you are wearing your ass out globe-trotting, and do not have the benefit of hotel pampering, you need to make up for it in other ways. Get your hair and nails done regularly. (In some places, these services cost less than a beer.) Tight personal grooming helps you look refreshed.

3. Cap it. If your hair (like mine) gets crazy in humid climates, you are going to have some bad hair days. A Yankees cap is the perfect cover-up. Plus, you will endear yourself with local teens the world over, who go nuts for that hat.

4. Buy a travel iron. I have yet to find a hostel that has an iron, but the nature of backpacking is that your clothes are stuffed in your bag most of the time. No reason why you can't cop a cheap iron and straighten out your gear every now and then.

5. Bring a handbag. The whole money belt thing is great when you are in transit on buses, planes, and trains. But when you head out to party, it's unnecessary. When you go out dancing in your hometown, do you insist on keeping your money and ID in your underwear? Neither do the people who live in the city you are visiting.

6. Accessorize. A couple of pairs of dangly earrings take up almost no space, but do a lot to dress up a weak outfit.

7. Lotion, lotion, lotion. In a hot climate, if you shower a few times a day, you have a hope of smelling decent. But you want to smell good. So get some fruity lotion on board. My fav is Bath & Bodyworks coconut lime body cream.

8. Keep it simple. It's not the time for splashy styles or wanna-be Carry Bradshaw get-ups. Stick to something you know you can pull off with limited resources. For girls: jeans, pumps, and a glittery tank. For guys: jeans, sneakers, and a crisp white tee. (I know a dude who travels a lot for work; he buys packs of cheap white t-shirts and wears a new one each day on the road. Good plan.)

9. Wash your hair. Sounds like common sense, doesn't it? But you would be surprised how many would-be hobos give up on this simple ritual.

10. Wear a little makeup. OK, so the heat in some places melts pretty much any cosmetics that you put on your face. But with a natural tan, a little lip gloss and waterproof mascara can go a long way.

This advice will likely not be heeded by the majority of travelers, because, quite simply, they don't give a rat's ass about fashion. Backpacking is the antithesis of all that is cosmopolitan and consumer. Plus, they tend to hang with other travelers 24/7, so there's not really any opportunity to notice that those lime green linen drawstring pants with caked curry on them don't look super cute with that tourist tee from small-town Thailand. I'm just saying.

Finally got fed up and went shopping to MBK yesterday. For about a hundred beans, I got two pairs of Diesel-ish jeans, two pairs of heels, three shirts, and had my hair done, and got a mani and pedi. Will beat this backpacker thing yet.

Kicking it with Travelin' Matt

Stopped by Q Bar (staff flick above, Matt in back next to Q sign) tonight before opening to kick it with the bar's manager, Travelin' Matt, an American/Thai hip-hop head from Philadelphia. (Will refrain from calling it Illadelphia cause I've read so many articles where The Roots clown reporters for using that term.)

Matt has been in Thailand for four years, following stints doing promotions at Loud and Ruffhouse Records, as well as working in radio, and as a DJ. During his tenure at Q Bar, he has brought over some big name acts, including Afrika Islam, Cash Money, and Kid Koala. Plus, he's is the only person I know to have ever published an article on Thai hip-hop outside of Asia (select Mugshot mag for "Boogie Down Bangkok").

DJ Budda Q

Met up with DJ Budda Q today so I could get his take on Thai hip-hop. Budda is originally from the UK but he's been living in Bangkok for years now, helping to build the scene. He started spinning at Speed when the hip-hop community was in its infancy. The spot became a gathering place for artists like Joey Boy and Da Jim, who came out to freestyle. Now Budda spins at Q Bar and Mystique, two of the hottest clubs in the city.

Rachada

Last night me and three girls from the hostel went looking for this party strip called Rachada Soi 4. We heard that it was a young Thai spot with over twenty bars, way off the farang (foreigner in Thai) radar. We took a train, then a cab, and ended up driving up and down Soi 3 trying to find a single club in the midst of blocks and blocks of outdoor noodle stands. As it turns out, the number four in Thai sounds like three in English. After we sorted out the mixup, we found Soi 4 and walked the strip trying to figure out how to chose a bar. Finally heard a familiar "da, da, da, da, da" hook from a Thaitanium track booming from the speakers at Snop, so we went in.

I have never in my life been anywhere that people were so startled to see me. I don't think foreigners ever go to those bars. People stared. People giggled. People came over to shake our hands. We ended up dancing with a posse of Thais to a very eclectic combo of current hip-hop, 50s pop, 90s heavy metal, and Thai ballads and rock songs. The twist seems to be a very popular dance move right now. Only one guy in the group spoke English, so he had to translate for all of his friends as they waited their turn to make small talk.

Bars in upscale Sukhumvit joints cost about 600 baht to get into (around $20 Canadian) and around 200 baht ($7) for drinks, which is a fortune here. The Rachada bars had no cover and my friends bought a bottle of rum, mixer, and a bucket of ice for 400 baht. (I stuck to my cola.)

2 Peace Drops

Went to RCA yesterday to the Craftsman Records offices to interview 2 Peace, whose debut We Come In Peace just dropped. Feeling their single "Kit Mak," which translates roughly as: "Don't think too much, I was only playing." The hook is real addictive; it sounds a little like Thai upcountry music set to a hot Neptunes beat. Got to see the video, too, which will be released Monday.

It's an exciting time for them. On the drive over to Craftsman, their producer Anutr Yossundara (flick below; of Suk 11 fame) took calls from friends who had just heard the track on the radio for the first time.

The group is four rappers: Madame Suki (used to be a dancer for Thaitanium), Bakadi, Wildderness, Bullet, plus DJ Kustomade. They rhyme in Thai and English. Most of them have spent considerable time abroad, and had some really interesting insights on the differences between American and Thai hip-hop (read my book for details). The similarities? Suki said it best: "It all comes down to heart. Hip-hop is all about heart."

Beware of the Boys

This is exactly what I was talking about when I wrote on the Khao San Road crowd. Boooooo.

Kudos to my fellow blogger for nailing it.

Festival Express

As summer approaches, I'll be posting the hip-hop fests that I hear about taking place around the world. Wish I could hit them all.

L'International du Cinema Hip-Hop du Montreal kicked off today (shout out to Karl and Liz from the Vancouver International Hip-Hop Film Fest, who are part of the organizing committee). Would recommend checking out the following films: 4Real Kenya (shout out to Sol, Josh, and K'naan), Freestyle: The Art of Rhyme, Sneakers, and Hali Halisi.

Also, the Brooklyn Hip-Hop Festival (shout out to Greg at Room Service) is set for June 18 with a lineup of Brand Nubian, Little Brother, Leela James, and Rhymefest. Looks like it will be hot.

August 17-21, the Ministry of Culture in Cuba will be holding its annual National Rap Fest in Havana.

If anyone knows of other ones, hit me at info@tarahenley.com and I'll add them to the site.

Music Matters

Why is it that music makes everything OK? Last night I accidentally deleted all of my trip photos off my camera's memory card. So bummed. Spent over an hour in the web cafe with a tech-savvy traveler, trying to retrieve them. Got some back, but not all. And I am the type of person that has a hard time letting stuff like that go.

One of the girls from the hostel and I had planned to check out the hip-hop night at Bed Supper Club, so we headed there (me dragging my feet and pouting). No time to change clothes or fuss--had to go straight there. Rocking flip-flops and no make-up. Felt a little silly showing up dressed like that. But as soon as I walked in, the DJ dropped Kardinal's "Maxine" (Canada in the house!) and everything in my world was alright again. He didn't stop there; DJ NGL played Biggie's "Hypnotize," then Mobb Deep's "Shook Ones," Sean Paul's "Get Busy," Akon's "Locked Up," and Tribe's "Award Tour." Stood on the balcony of the club, watching the packed house go crazy, and just loving life. Don't know why music can do that for me, but I'm so glad it does.

Interviewed NGL after the club closed (flick below on left). He's British/Caribbean and has been in Bangkok for a couple of years. He says he's watched the scene explode over the last year or so. Also said that every scene goes through two stages: imitation and innovation. He believes the Thais are moving into the second stage, experimenting and finding their own sound.

After the club, me and my hostel friend sat on the street corner with a bunch of Thai taxi drivers, shooting the breeze until 4 a.m. The taxi drivers were hilarious. In this country, cabbies tend to pester you on the street endlessly with "madam, where you go?" It's easy to stop noticing these people, to brush past and tune them out. But sitting with them for a couple of hours while they hustled was something else. They would put on a blank look, perform their "taxi, taxi?" routine, and then turn around and crack witty jokes in pretty decent English. They told us about their wives, and their kids, and their jobs, and their views on American politics. Before they went home for the night, they gave us some pink rose apples. My favorite.

Suk 11

Staying at the backpacker's mecca, Suk 11. What makes this hostel so special? It's not anywhere near the circus of Khao San Road, for one (think techno music blaring around the clock, shirtless surfer dudes looking to pick up, white chicks with dread locks drunk as hell, cafes serving up greasy Western hangover food, and many, many "massage" parlors).

Sukhumvit and Soi 11 is a twenty minute cab ride away from all the drama. And it's impeccably clean. Plus, it has air conditioning, hot water showers, free breakfast, coin wash, cheap internet, and a common room with an extensive video selection. All for about 8$ a night. But more importantly, it's run by a fantastic Thai family, the Yossundaras (see flick of Anil Yossundara below), and tends to attract really cool guests from all over the world. NGO workers just returning from refugee camps on the Burmese border, tsunami aid volunteers, t.v. producers doing research, med school grads on break before residency, Peace Corps people, teachers working in Thailand. It's backpacking for grown folks.

Blue Note

Bar Stars

Went out last night with a couple of girls from my hostel to the hip-hop night at Q Bar, which is right down the street from our spot. DJ Budda Q was on the ones and twos. Loved his set; had to stay on the dance floor for hours. Talked with him a bit after the bar closed and he took me to a nearby lot to check out some graffiti. Lots of big pieces. Saw work by Ofay, Beats, Devise, Mode 1. Went back today for flicks.

The Elements

Went to MBK shopping center at dusk today to see the b-boys. Those guys are serious dancers. Also saw this graff piece at the Nana skytrain station.

One Night in Bangkok

Me and Bangkok, we're good again. I was starting to get a little pissed at this city, what with the food poisoning and the stifling heat and the grime and all. But then I fell in love with the Big Mango all over again. Here's how it went down.

Last night, as I was leaving the hair salon, a storm hit. We're talking sudden, torrential downpour. So wet that the soi (street in Thai) was flooded in under five minutes. So wet that my jeans were soaked through in a matter of seconds. So wet that traffic ceased immediately, leaving only the occasional motorcycle taxi to navigate the drenched terrain.

Obviously the new doo was ruined. I only had half a block to travel back to my hostel, but had to jump from under one canopy to the next. Ended up stuck under a street vendor's umbrella, unable to go any further. Hung for a bit with a group of young Thai guys who tried to convince me to drink whiskey with them. Somehow standing there huddled under an umbrella with them, laughing like crazy at the rain, in no particular language, was pure magic.

Got back to the hostel and went out with a friend Anil (his fam owns the hostel) and all his friends to see a Thai hip-hop show. We went to a club called Forte on the party strip, RCA. The venue was, uh, interesting. It was a hostess bar.

Our group was around ten dudes, me, and a girl Duen. She had never been to a hostess bar either, so we bonded on that and spent a lot of time looking anywhere but the stage. I do have to say that it was basically just a glammed-up fashion show, though. The costumes were incredible. No stripping either.

Anyway, at around 2:00 a.m. I went backstage and met the hip-hop group, 2 Peace. They consist of three male rappers, a spunky female rapper, and a DJ. They also had two b-girls with them. They went on shortly after. Their show was pretty nuts (flick below from Anil's camera phone). Really young, fresh, fun vibe. Sort of like a Thai version of the Black Eyed Peas, but not corny. Their debut album drops in a couple of days.

Been taking it easy today. Still not eating anything but bread and my stomach is a bit queasy. Resting up and listening to Thaitanium and Silk Sounds. Really feeling both those groups.

Bumrungrad Fiasco

Drama in Bangkok. I got sick. Knew I shouldn't have bragged that I hadn't gotten sick yet. Why tempt fate?

I ate something bad and spent a day in my room in agony. Entered that feverish haze where nothing makes sense. People came and went from the hostel dorm room. A girl from Vermont checked out and left behind a clown wig. Still haven't figure out why someone would be traveling with that. The cleaning staff came in to change the sheets, discovered the wig, and danced around in it giggling.

Ended up having to go to Bumrungrad International, which is the best hospital in Asia. Very strange experience. To start, my insurance wasn't accepted. (Here's an idea RBC. If you hawk a wildly expensive plan based on the fact that one will not have to pay up front for emergency medical, you might want to actually deliver that service. Just a thought.)

Plus, Bumrungrad looks more like a hotel than a hospital. There are porters at the front door, a Starbucks in the lobby, and you receive a complimentary toiletry case when you check in. Spent the night there hooked up to an IV feeling more than a little sorry for myself. Being sick in a foreign country definitely sucks.

When I checked out, the insurance situation still hadn't been settled, so I had to fork over quite a bit of cash. The Thai women at the cashier's office felt so badly that they apologized profusely, waied, and gave me a Bumrungrad International pen to take back to my country. And a card for a free Starbucks coffee.

Thai Hip-Hop

Over the last week, I have been questioning every Thai that I meet about music. I asked the girls selling knock-off Gucci sunglasses on the street; I asked the taxi drivers; I asked the university students that staff my hostel. They all say the same thing: check out Joey Boy and Thaitanium.

So I went to Siam Square yesterday (stomping grounds for Thai teens) and spent the afternoon in the record shops, trying to cobble together conversations with the dudes that work there from their limited English, a whole lot of hand gestures, and my nonexistent Thai (note to self: learn to speak Thai!). Bought Joey Boy's The Greatest Beats 1994-2000, Silk Sounds' Fresh To Death, Thaitanium's R.A.S. (Resisting Against Da System), and an underground mixtape, Siam Mixtape Vol. 1 hosted by JRoc.

Hip-Hop seems to be exploding here right now. Been reading all the English language newspapers and magazines, and many make reference to how popular the culture is becoming. There are loads of hip-hop club nights, lots of graffiti, and I hear that every night at dusk, breakdancers gather outside MBK shopping center and bust moves on cardboard platforms. Will check that out soon.

Back to food. So happy eating Thai food every day. The hostel that I am staying in (more on that later) is run by a Thai family and they offer a home-cooked Thai meal every night for 60 baht (about two dollars). Last night we had a salty soup with beef balls and cabbage, chicken wings with sweet chili sauce, rice, and garlic green beans. The meals are always so fresh. Also been experimenting with street cart food. Haven't gotten sick yet (knock on wood). Last night I tried a sweet banana pancake that was out of this world--crispy with sweetened condensed milk drizzled on top.

Sightseeing

Getting used to the heat. I am not, however, getting used to the backpacker/hippie look. Not interested in that. So I went to the salon again and had my hair done (only $5 with big tip). Will have to find more ways to cope with this insane humidity and still look decent. May have to poll random Thai women on beauty secrets.

Got an email from a colleague in Van City, Andrea Woo. She tells me that Print Club (photo booth emporiums with wacky music and futuristic backgrounds) is not exclusive to Japan. Apparently we have them in a suburb of Vancouver called Richmond. I stand corrected. And while we are on the topic of Andrea Woo, everyone should check out her article on Jin the MC. She interviewed him way before everyone else was doing it. He's huge over here right now.

I read an interesting article in the Sunday Style section of The Nation newspaper about a Thai-American writer named Rattawut Lapcharoensap and his debut collection of short stories, Sightseeing. In the interview, Lapcharoensap said that he is writing against a body of work by tourists and expatriates that stereotypes Thai culture.

"I think people are rightly concerned that the way Thailand is represented is overly determined by images of the sex trade and easy Thai women," he told the paper. "I want to portray a Thailand that isn't hyper-exotic, where people seem familiar, where everything doesn't revolve around tourists, and where a broad range of Thai humanity can be seen." He continued: "My characters will be concerned about how they love or don't love--very everyday concerns."

This is a wonderful reminder for me, a tourist writing in Thailand, not to be lazy. The sex trade is so visible here, it can be overpowering. But of course there are many other sides to Thai life. And hip-hop is a great way to get at some of those other stories.

I went out and bought Sightseeing right away and have been devouring it ever since. Beautiful, evocative writing. Tomorrow, will go to Siam Center and peruse the record shops.

Hot in Here

Holy crap, is it ever hot. Walking the streets of Bangkok is like trying to run wind sprints in a sauna. I shower multiple times a day and stay inside in the afternoons.

I feel out of sorts. Like my body and my soul are not in agreement, like I am stretched across several continents simultaneously. A piece of me is roaming Kits Beach in Vancouver, hugging a latte and planning my escape (my editor Mike calls it my "get the hell out of dodge" itch). Another part of me is riding the Yamanote line in Tokyo, sipping lemon iced tea and watching all the Japanese teens feverishly text messaging each other. Another is holed up in a hotel room in Hong Kong, feeling lost. And then my actual physical self is wandering around Bangkok, stomach churning violently, trying to pull together all of these threads, bridge all these gaps, feel whole again somehow. The experience reminds me of William Gibson's latest book Pattern Recognition. His description of jet lag is my life right now.

I have been spending time with family friends who are staying in the most luxurious hotel I have ever seen, The Oriental. We pass hours in the cool lobby, watching the international glitterati glide by. Had dinner on the deck at dusk last night, overlooking the Chao Phraya river. Turquoise waves, warm glowing lights, cascades of orchids. Lobster tails, spicy mango salad, sesame grilled fish, deep fried bananas, sweet sticky rice.

This whole backpacker chic thing is not working for me. My clothes are rumpled; my shoes scuffed. Everything I own has a thin film of grime on it. And my hair has been impossible since I left home. (In Canada, it's straight. Japan was limp and gummy. Hong Kong, frizzy. In Thailand, it's ringlets that pop out of ponytails at odd angles.) Went to the beauty parlor yesterday and had my hair and nails done. My hair was nice after I left the salon, but it's a mess again already. And the polish on my nails actually melted. I don't know how Thai women manage to look so immaculate all of the time.

BK (as in Bangkok, not Brooklyn)

I am finally in Bangkok, a.k.a. the Big Mango. When I got off the plane this morning, I was hit with a rush of hot air, and that sweet, musty smell that this country has--a combination of jasmine flowers and slightly fermented fruit. Feels so good to be here. Been walking around all day with a silly grin on my face.

I was in Thailand four years ago, and it was a magical time for me, both personally and as a writer. (Long story; read chapter one of my book. Don't you love that? Promoting a book that's not even close to finished yet!!!) Anyway, I spent three months here alone, writing and basically coming into my own as a person. So it's a special place for me. Plus, I am a big foodie, and this is definitely a food town. Meals are spiritual experiences here. Instead of saying "How are you?", people greet you by asking, "Have you eaten yet?" The food is that exquisite. (More on that later. Trust me, you will be hearing more than you ever wanted to know about Thai cuisine.)

But it's more than just the food. It's the sensual weather (scorching hot with occasional thunderstorms), the gentle customs (every single person who meets your eyes on the street smiles at you), the packed alley markets (flowers, fruit, silks), the fragrant air (incense and chili smoke), and the frenetic street life (motorbikes, tuk tuks, taxis, a couple million people). Nothing has the power to move me like Bangkok. OK, maybe New York. But still.

Hong Kong Dim Sum

Alone on Hong Kong Island. Can't believe how breathtaking the city is. It's surrounded by shimmering water and lush, tropical mountains. Rolled in last night on the bus, and was awed by how tall the skyscrapers are. At one point we drove through a maze of residential towers; it was staggering how many apartments were packed into the buildings. Thousands of lit living rooms; the occasional face peering out; laundry strung across balconies, flapping in the wind. Woke up this morn in my hotel (30th floor baby, my one indulgence for this trip!). Spent ages gazing out the window.

Don't know what to do with myself. I have a one day stopover before Bangkok, and I am coming back later in July, so I don't feel super motivated to do research. I wanted to hook up with MC Yan and DJ Tommy of Lazy Motha Fucka or LMF (H.K. hip-hop pioneers), but those dudes are impossible to get in touch with. There is also a Chinese-Canadian rapper/film star named Edison Chen who is originally from Vancouver, but his style is more Canto-pop. And, as Jay Smooth reported last year, he's a little sketchy; he has been know to drop the N word in his rhymes. Apparently, he was jumped last year outside a record store in H.K. and beat up. By two teenagers, to boot.

It's real muggy here; much hotter than Japan. I'm pretty worn out, so I decided to shop and eat instead of hunting down hip-hop interviews. For some reason, I have always wanted to go for dim sum (Chinese brunch) in Hong Kong. Vancouver has a big Asian community, and I grew up eating dim sum with friends. For a while, my girls and I would go every Saturday morning to Sun Sui Wah. Usually you have to wait a ridiculously long time for a table, but one of the managers had a crush of my friend Jen, so we could always get in. (Without Jen, though, we were out of luck.) There, the trolleys would circle the restaurant, delivering steaming bamboo baskets filled with Ha Gow (shrimp dumplings), Shu Mai (pork and shrimp balls), Cha Su Bao (coconut buns with BBQ pork). I heard people talking about how amazing dim sum was in H.K., so it came to hold an almost mythic appeal for me.

So I took a taxi halfway across town today in search of delicious dim sum. Went to a place called Luk Yu Tea House, which is the oldest tea house in H.K. I expected that it would be filled with tourists, since it's pretty famous. But when I walked in, it was all Chinese business men. Caused a bit of a commotion. Don't think it's normal for chicks to dine solo here. Had to eat and run. And, sadly, the dim sum was better in Vancouver.

Moshi Moshi

Last night in Tokyo. Divina and I are sitting around listening to Usher. Had a low key day. Went to the coin laundry in her neighborhood, Negishi. D's roomie Sarah warned me that you can't leave your washing unattended because creepy old men will steal your underwear. Sure enough, as soon as we got there, a guy started hovering around my machine. Yuck. Had to guard my stuff the entire time.

Went for dinner in Shibuya and walked around for a couple of hours. Some of the fashion in Harajuku is bizarre. There a packs of high school girls dressed in frilly Little Bo Peep costumes, just chilling in cafes. Seriously.

Went to a huge photo booth emporium and had wallet-size photo stickers taken against bright, cartoon backgrounds. All of the girls do it here; it's called Print Club.

Heard that a group of MCs had a cypher at Shibuya station for the first time ever the other day. Apparently there were over a hundred people there, including a rapper from South Korea who was rhyming about North Korea.

Searching for A Bathing Ape

Yesterday Divina, Afra, and I went looking for Foot Soldier, Nigo's sneaker boutique. Afra wants Pharrell's Ice Cream kicks and I have lusted after BAPEs for a long time. Unfortunately, the store wasn't where it was supposed to be. Taking the whole exclusivity thing one step too far. We are going to try again today.

Afterwards, we went to Tower Records so Afra could help me pick out some Japanese CDs. Bought Kan's new album (he's the Japanese Nas), DJ Hazime's new mix tape (met him at Harlem the other night), and SDP's latest (they are the Japanese rap crew that's featured on De La Soul's "Long Island Wildin"). Can't wait to listen.

Last day in Tokyo. My feet are aching from so much dancing.

B-Boy Stance

Yesterday, Divina and I went to Shinjuku, where much of Lost in Translation was filmed. Looming skycrapers, surging waves of people, and flashing neon billboards, against a backdrop of purple twilight. Like Times Square in New York, but bigger. While we were there, we met up with Kazuhiro Nakamura (photo below), who runs a hip-hop english language school called B-College. The institute offers tutorials in hip-hop slang, along with classes in hip-hop history and politics.

All of the Western writing that I read on Japanese hip-hop before coming here (including Neate's book) took the same approach, basically arguing that Japanese youth are appropriating black culture without understanding any of the issues that surround it--that it is about style to them, and nothing more. There are certainly some elements of the scene here that can be disturbing (the overly-tanned Shibuya girls in cornrows being one), but I think writing off the whole scene as naive and ignorant is too simplistic. There is a passion for the music here that is impressive. People absolutely adore hip-hop. The DJs are incredible; the clubs are always packed; people dance til dawn every night, cheering every obscure record imaginable; touring rap acts get huge love. Japanese youth are serious hip-hop addicts. So it's complicated.

Went to the big hip-hop club in Shibuya last night. The spot is called Harlem. DJ Camilo from Hot 97 in New York was spinning and I spent the evening on the floor, busting my Shakira moves and sweating happily away.

The Large Professor was performing at Yellow last night, but we didn't make it there. Someone at the club said that The Roots are here right now too.

Beats, Rhymes, and Life

Went out to Shibuya again on Friday night to see a beatbox showcase at Neo. The club was jammed and people were hyped to see Afra, a famous Japanese beatboxer (flick below with my friend Divina). He performed with three other guys, and they tore it up. After the show, we hung with them in one of the VIP lounges, a covered rooftop patio that looked out over the city. All night, everyone we met had some connection to Vancouver. One of the Japanese beatboxers, Shari, had lived in the West End for a while; a Chinese rapper named MC Gold Mountain had gone to the same university as Divina (UBC); and a graff writer we met, Yesca (flick below), is from Van City and knows a bunch of my fav graff artists there (Take 5, Plus 1).

Took the train home at dawn again. In Tokyo, the trains stop running at 12:30 and start again at 5:00, so most people stay out all night. The first train in the morning is packed with young bar stars and drunk salary men (in identical dark suits). It's legal to drink in public here, and the trains always reek of alcohol. On the way to the station, I saw a number of partiers passed out on the street. Yesca told me that I have to watch for the early morn pervs that lurk in the trains groping chicks. His girl is Japanese and it happened to her, but she kicked up a big fuss and had the dude kicked off the train.